Lighting Fixture Selection

𝗗𝗼𝘄𝗻𝗹𝗶𝗴𝗵𝘁𝘀 𝘃𝘀. 𝗥𝗲𝗰𝗲𝘀𝘀𝗲𝗱 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗲𝗮𝗿 – 𝗪𝗵𝘆 𝗣𝗵𝗼𝘁𝗼𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗿𝗶𝗰 𝗔𝗻𝗮𝗹𝘆𝘀𝗶𝘀 𝗠𝗮𝘁𝘁𝗲𝗿𝘀 When it comes to designing impactful and functional hallways, light distribution is everything. We presented these two hallway lighting concepts to an architecture firm. On paper, both seemed valid. But once we ran the photometric analysis, the story changed: 𝙊𝙥𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣 1: 𝘿𝙤𝙬𝙣𝙡𝙞𝙜𝙝𝙩𝙨 (𝙎𝙥𝙤𝙩)  This approach uses evenly spaced downlights to create a rhythm along the hallway. It’s simple and familiar—but it also results in hot spots directly beneath each fixture and shadows in between. The photometric map clearly shows intensity drop-offs and uneven vertical illumination, especially on the feature wall. 𝙊𝙥𝙩𝙞𝙤𝙣 2: 𝙍𝙚𝙘𝙚𝙨𝙨𝙚𝙙 𝙇𝙞𝙣𝙚𝙖𝙧 (𝘿𝙞𝙛𝙛𝙪𝙨𝙚𝙙)  Here we integrated a continuous linear profile recessed into the ceiling. The light washes the wall more uniformly, creating a seamless and welcoming glow. The photometric output shows a more even vertical distribution, enhancing material textures and guiding occupants naturally into the space. 𝗖̲𝗼̲𝗻̲𝗰̲𝗹̲𝘂̲𝘀̲𝗶̲𝗼̲𝗻̲:̲ ̲The linear solution for the hallway stands as the better option given its consistency and uniformity. This approach, distinct from downlights, provided better vertical illuminance and a brighter perception of the space rather than focusing on higher horizontal illuminance. 👉 𝘞𝘩𝘺 𝘵𝘩𝘪𝘴 𝘮𝘢𝘵𝘵𝘦𝘳𝘴: Photometric analysis helps us quantify lighting levels and distribution before anything gets built. It's how we make sure the design not only looks good on paper—but performs flawlessly in real life. Educating clients on the impact of each lighting technique builds trust and confidence—and ensures the architectural intent is never compromised by poor lighting choices. Lighting design is not just about selecting fixtures—it’s about shaping the experience. #codelumen #LightingDesign #PhotometricAnalysis #ArchitecturalLighting #LightingDesigner #DesignMatters #DetailDrivenDesign #Downlights #LinearLighting #LobbyDesign #LightingSolutions #DesignProcess #LightingComparison #DesignTools #SpecGradeLighting #LightingEducation

Attention Interior Designers, what do all these wall lights have in common, and how will they mess up your project? If you don't specify them before first fix (when cables are run), you will not be able use them. While they look like beautiful, simple fittings on the outside, they all have either remote drivers and/or different dimming protocols. This means that they will not work with "standard" wiring. Often it is interior designers selecting decorative lighting, so how can you avoid this happening on your project? Here is some key information to bear in mind: - Finalise all specification before first fix. While this can be challenging, since they are decorative elements, it will ensure £1000s are saved later, and the project runs smoothly. Also, it will give you the most freedom in the fitting choice. - If a decision cannot be made, then ask for provisional cabling to be run for different dimming or driver types. This will be costly (electrician costs will increase 2-3x because of the number of extra cables run) but you would be covered. - If you cannot run additional cabling, and cannot decide, make sure you look to specify phase, sometimes called Triac, dimmable light fittings (not just "dimmable" because this can mean many things). This will save weeks later on going back and forth because your choices are invalidated, and will prevent you looking unknowledgeable in front of the client. If you are lucky enough to have a lighting designer involved in your projects, ask them to help and check what you are specifying, they will be more than happy to help (we are the masters of collaboration). If you don't, then feel free to get in contact and we can help support you in ensuring you get that dream interior you envisioned for your clients. Please note: this is not a flaw in these fittings, but actually an evolution of light fitting design as manufacturers seek to get better quality light and dimming, so please don't blame them.

90% of interior design mistakes are in the lighting. Let me tell you what goes wrong and how to fix it like a pro. After years transforming luxury spaces,  here's what I've learned about it: 1/ The overhead light trap One ceiling light = a flat, lifeless room. I usually layer 3: → Ambient for general glow → Task for reading, cooking, work → Accent to highlight art, textures, and depth 2/ Temperature tells a story Warm (2700K–3000K) feels like a cozy hotel lobby. Cooler (4000K) works in kitchens where focus matters. If you choose wrong then a plush space feels sterile. 3/ Natural light is a design tool I’ve reoriented entire floor plans just to follow the sun. Morning coffee corners must be West-facing and dinner zones require that soft evening light. Great design starts with where the light lands. It’s my job to calculate everything. 4/ Accent lighting = luxury in disguise It’s the difference between ordinary and wow. → Picture lights above art → LED strips under shelves → Hidden uplights grazing textured walls These subtle touches add theatre, intimacy, and mood. Bonus tip: Add dimmers everywhere. It’s the cheapest way to make your space feel like a high-end hotel. Trust me on this. I’ve designed boutique restaurants, ocean-facing penthouses, and heritage villas. And every time, lighting made the biggest emotional difference. I've watched clients fall in love with spaces they previously hated simply by correcting the lighting. So which type of lighting do you prefer in your space? #interiordesign #luxurydesign #lighting #tips

𝗪𝗵𝘆 𝗗𝗼 𝗦𝗼𝗺𝗲 𝗥𝗼𝗼𝗺𝘀 𝗙𝗲𝗲𝗹 𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗔𝗻𝗱 𝗢𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿𝘀 𝗝𝘂𝘀𝘁 𝗗𝗼𝗻'𝘁 𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝘀𝘄𝗲𝗿 𝗶𝘀 𝗮𝗹𝗺𝗼𝘀𝘁 𝗮𝗹𝘄𝗮𝘆𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗯𝗲𝗮𝗺 𝗮𝗻𝗴𝗹𝗲. Most designers pick a light fixture for how it looks. Very few pick it for what it actually does to a surface, a wall, or a human face standing beneath it. Light beam angle is one of the most underspecified decisions in interior design — and it is also one of the most powerful. The same ceiling, the same wattage, the same colour temperature. Change the beam spread from 8° to 60° and you have an entirely different spatial experience. 𝗞𝗲𝘆 𝗗𝗲𝘀𝗶𝗴𝗻 𝗜𝗻𝘀𝗶𝗴𝗵𝘁𝘀 ⬛ Narrow beams (8°–15°) create dramatic accent lighting — ideal for artwork, sculptures, or architectural features where precision and contrast define the mood. ⬛ Medium beams (20°–35°) are the workhorses of task and display lighting, striking the balance between focus and comfortable spill on surrounding surfaces. ⬛ Wide beams (40°–60°) wash spaces with soft, even illumination — best for ambient layers in living areas, hospitality lobbies, and retail environments. ⬛ The edge quality of a beam — hard cut versus soft gradient — determines whether a lit surface reads as theatrical or inviting, a critical distinction in high-end residential design. ⬛ Layering three beam types in a single space — narrow accent, medium task, wide ambient — is the professional standard that separates designed lighting from installed lighting. 𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗕𝗶𝗴𝗴𝗲𝗿 𝗣𝗶𝗰𝘁𝘂𝗿𝗲 Lighting is not decoration. It is the final layer of architecture — the one that controls emotion, perception of volume, and material richness. A beam angle chart like this one should be in every designer's specification toolkit, not just in the lighting consultant's folder. The next time a client says a room feels flat, check the beam angles before you change anything else. — 𝗠𝗶𝘀𝗵𝘂𝗹 𝗚𝘂𝗽𝘁𝗮 #InteriorDesign #LightingDesign #ArchitecturalLighting #BeamAngle #SpaceDesign #DesignDetails #AECIndustry #InteriorArchitecture #LightingSpecification #DesignThinking

Guidelines for Selecting Chandelier Size and Height 1. Determining the Chandelier Diameter Basic Rule: Add the room length and width (in meters). The result approximately equals the chandelier diameter in centimeters. Example: Room size: 4 m × 5 m 4 + 5 = 9 Recommended diameter ≈ 90 cm ⸻ 2. When Using Two Chandeliers When installing two chandeliers instead of one, the diameter is not divided in half. Instead: • First, calculate the main diameter using the basic rule. • Each chandelier should be approximately 60–70% of the calculated diameter. Example: Room 4 × 5 m → Main diameter = 90 cm If using two chandeliers → Each should be approx. 55–65 cm Notes: • Two chandeliers are ideal for long rectangular rooms or elongated spaces. • They should be aligned symmetrically along the room’s central axis. • The spacing between their centers typically ranges from 120–180 cm, depending on room size. ⸻ 3. Determining Chandelier Height A) In the Center of the Room (No Table Below): • The bottom of the chandelier should be at least 210 cm above the finished floor. • In circulation areas, 220 cm clearance is preferable. B) Above a Dining Table: • The chandelier should hang 70–90 cm above the tabletop. • The 210 cm clearance rule does not apply in this case. C) In High Ceilings: • The chandelier drop length may be approximately ¼ to ⅓ of the ceiling height to maintain visual balance. This appendix provides clear dimensional guidelines to ensure proper proportion, visual balance, and functional clearance when selecting chandeliers.